Zambia's Ecotourism Venture Clouded by Ecotroubles

Confusion has erupted among tourism stakeholders in Zambia's tourist capital of Livingstone, the departure point for Victoria Falls on the Zambezi River, a UNESCO World Heritage site that draws visitors in numbers that top 300,000 a year.

The Zambian ecotourism business is in disarray just when the United Nations International Year of Ecotourism was supposed to help developing countries make the most of their natural resources to attract foreign currency and conserve the environment at the same time.

Livingstone, Zambia's tourist capital, is one of 10 city councils that the World Bank is trying to help reorganize into economically viable and internationally recognized tourist destinations. But lack of an integrated plan to sort out environmental problems is proving to be a stumbling block.

Two months ahead of the World Ecotourism Summit set for May 19 to 22 in Quebec, Canada, where Zambia would like to put its best foot forward, foreign investors have voiced their concerns over what they call bureacratic confusion of the Zambia Tourist Board, the Environmental Council of Zambia, Zambia Wildlife Authority, and the National Heritage Conservation Commission.

The world's largest falls are awe-inspiring, dropping into a canyon 110 metres (360 feet) deep and just over one mile wide, and sending up a plume of spray that can been seen for miles around.

But the glory of the falls are dimmed by environmental problems that include the dumping of raw sewage into the Zambezi River, a source of drinking water for over 70,000 Livingstone residents and a source of adventure for tourists who come for the riverboarding, white water rafting, and canoeing.
Waste management is another problem hampering tourism development in the city, where human beings join stray dogs and vultures in scavenging from waste dumping sites to survive.

The environment and natural scenic beauty of the city is being harmed by infrastructure and hotel buildings, and the intrusion of large numbers of foreigners with little knowledge and respect for local culture and traditions.

With the Zambian copper industry in decline and up to 80 percent of the people living below the poverty level, the government has been looking to tourism to provide an antidote to Zambia's economic woes.

But ecotourism has evolved into a battle among nature lovers in Livingstone. It is an issue that affects people's psychology, inter-cultural values and human rights.

Chief Mukuni of the Toka-Leya people, says that from the outset the government has treated tourism like a stepchild.

But Minister of Finance and National Planning Emmanuel Kasonde said in his 2002 budget speech that the Zambian government intends to make tourism the third economic giant alongside mining and agriculture.

The people of Livingstone and the surrounding area are looking to ecotourism for job creation and income, but today the tourist industry is falling short of their hopes.

Curio carver Abinot Sibajene says tourism is in a slump after the September 11 terrorist attacks in America, affecting the local people's quality of life.

For women who must keep the home fires burning with whatever income their menfolk make from the curio industry, life is indeed hard. Christina Moonde is a mother of eight. Her husband makes curios for a living, but lately, he has not been able to sell any.

Wood carvers are not the only ones who look to the tourism industry for their livelihood. The mushrooming of brothels in the city is another concern for conservationists and residents alike. There is an upsurge of prostitution and sex-related diseases, and the local economy is being disrupted because female labor is siphoned off from farming to the prostitution-related tourism sector.

Vincent Katanekwa, director of the Livingstone Museum, sees the extent of prostitution in the city, as a danger zone for HIV/AIDS. Katanekwa says the collapse of about 20 textile and blanket factories, shut down in the mid-1990s as a result of the country's structural Adjustment Programme (SAP), has adversely affected the value of labor, driving women into the sex trade.

Faless, 25, is a commercial sex-worker who came from another town to make her fortune from the tourists passing through Livingstone. Like most of those in her line of business, she searches for clients in the popular night clubs of the city.

Burglary of lodges and guest houses is another social problem with an environmental side effect that Livingstone must address. To protect their premises from constant breakins, most lodge owners near the Zambezi River and the Victoria Falls have built fences around their premises.

But this action has annoyed the Zambia Wildlife Authority, a wildlife regulatory body, and the National Heritage Conservation Commission. The regulators contend that the fencing of properties situated in Mosi-O-Tunya Zoological Park prevents free movement of animals such as sable antelope, eland, vervet monkeys, warthogs and elephants.

"I would rather you cage the human being and leave animals alone," said Benjamin Mibenge, public relations officer for the National Heritage Conservation Commission.

But tour operators and lodge owners argue that animals are not the ones that break in and steal property worth thousands of U.S. dollars.

Ignitius Lindique, director of the private tour operation United Air Charters, justifies the fencing of business premises in the face of escalating crime in Livingstone.

Lindique is using his helicopter hire company to cooperate with the Zambia Police Service in joint operations to curb crime in Livingstone. "We use helicopters to chase and apprehend armed robbers," said Lindique.

Now, with the establishment of the Mukuni Environmental and Economic Development Trust, there is hope that over 7,000 Livingstone are residents could benefit from tourism revenue. The trust in Mukuni Village is seeking to communicate the people's precolonial history and way of life as a method of enlightening tourists on the richness of African culture.

Senior Chief Mukuni says the trust is composed of civic leaders, representatives from villages and local community organizations.

For every flight on which United Charters takes tourists to view Victoria Falls, one dollar goes to the Mukuni Trust.

The chief, who sits on the boards of the United Air Charter, United Touring Company and Mukuni Industries, says the trust is valuable although one dollar may seem like an insignificant amount compared to the resources needed to transform Livingstone into a vibrant ecotourism center.

Despite the creation of the Mukuni Trust, some foreign investors in the tourism industry feel the lack of coordination among various regulatory agencies is frustrating their business. But for those like the chief who believe in the Mukuni Trust, it is a sign of cleaner, more lucrative ecotourism to come for Livingstone and its residents.

Source: Zambia's Ecotourism Venture Clouded by Ecotroubles (05/03/02)

Livingstone to get rebirth?

 Livingstone, Zambia - The once "docile" tourism capital of Zambia, Livingstone could be basking in the limelight of Sun International Hotels soon. But only if the Zambian Government manages to meet the hotel group's numerous infrastructural development targets and demands.

Sun International has almost finished Zambia's single biggest hospitality investment since independence 36 years ago at a cost of more than $69 million at the fringes of the famous Victoria falls.

The three resorts built less than 100m from the thunderous falls on the Zambian side comprise a five-star hotel, a three-star hotel and executive upper-class maisonettes.

But the Zambian government seems to have been caught off-guard at the "supersonic" speed the hotels have been built. At least by Zambian standards the structure was completed in a record time of than 18 months.

Sun demanded, among other things, the development of infrastructure such as roads, water reticulation and communication, the refurbishment of the Livingstone international airport, and the upgrading of the road network, sewer and drainage system.

While the Sun structures were taking shape, government failed to meet even a quarter of its pledge.

The critical 11km waterline from the reticulation plant to the resort at the falls has not been fully funded and it seems unlikely that the cash-strapped government will manage to do so before 1 April 2001, the official opening day. Only about $400 000 of the estimated $2 million has been paid to the Norwegian contractor Noremco.

The road network remains dotted with enormous potholes and large pools of water along the roads.

Only the Livingstone International Airport has been refurbished at a cost of about $800 000. And this is not from government funding, but the Quasi National Airports Corporation, which runs the country's major national and international airports.

Local government and housing permanent secretary Overs Banda, whose ministry is responsible for the development of the local infrastructure, said the government was doing its best to look for funds.

He said President Chiluba has attached much importance to the project because it is the biggest single investment since he ascended to power nine years ago. He last week appointed a ministerial co-ordinating committee comprising ministers from the Department of Tourism, Local Government and Housing, Works and Supplies and Finance and Economic development to ensure the project received the best possible attention government was able to provide.

Outgoing Tourism Minister Reverend Anoshi Chipawa told Sun Group Divisional Director for Resorts Phillip Gergas while visiting the project in October, that government was very concerned with the Sun Resort project.

"Our tourism promotion has been literally non-existent. Sun Resorts will put Zambia squarely into international tourism spotlight," he said.

The Tourism Council of Zambia chairman Bruce Chapman says his group is worried with the pace at which government has been developing the infrastructure in Livingstone.

Since the construction of the resort a number of South African companies have started pouring resources into the city of Livingstone. Up until 1996 the city had neither an ice-cream machine, nor a bakery.

Within two years a number of major South African companies have opened businesses in the city. Notable among these are Hungry Lion, Shoprite Checkers, Hifi, and Supreme Furniture. Stocks & Stocks has been given prime land in the city centre to build a modern mall at a cost of over $12 million.

Nationwide Airlines is to commence daily flights by April 2001, while Air Namibia, British Airways and SAA may introduce weekly flights by June 2001.

So far no less than $70 million has been directly and indirectly contributed to the gross domestic product (GDP).

Nine months after opening an additional $50 million will flow into the national economy and about $90 million the subsequent year, rising to about $104m by the year 2005.The project will therefore have increased GDP by 3.6 percent by the year 2005.

Over 6 500 jobs have so far been created directly and indirectly through multiplying effects as a result of services rendered to the project. The figure is expected to rise to 9000 by the year 2005.

The resort, which is already fully booked for the first six months after opening in April, will attract over 85 000 tourists a year. Zambia attracted only 80 000 tourists during 1999.

The Sun resort consists of a 216 room three-star hotel with a 350-seater conference facility, a boma for special functions, a kids children's emporium and a small casino.

The architects have been inspired by the simplicity and style of traditional adobe mud buildings that will be in harmony with the African landscape.

"The buildings are at once simple, rustic and welcoming," says hotel general manager Phillip Couvaras.

The adjoining five star 175-room hotel will be upmarket, "offering the same exalted service standards and facilities that distinguish the Table Bay, Sun International's premier hotel in Cape Town. Where the Table Bay is neo-Victorian, the five-star hotel at the Falls is triumphantly Zambian - as interpreted by master architects and designers. Its unique design has been inspired by grand, old Victorian estate houses, many examples of which can be admired in the nearby city of Livingstone," says a Sun International spokesperson.

The Sun hotel is the country's third major hotel by a South African Company, the others being the Lusaka Holiday Inn and the Chisamba Protea Hotel near Lusaka.

The Sun Hotel at the Victoria Falls in Livingstone is the most unique of all, being situated on an International Heritage site - the Falls itself, which is in turn regarded as one of the seven wonders of the world.

Tourists generally believe the Falls are on the Zimbabwean side of the Zambezi River, because from the Zimbabwean side one has a view over 500 metres of the 1.7km of spray.

But only from the Zambian side can walk 1,2km to view the falls.

With fewer visitors visiting Zimbabwe due to recent upheavals over land, the Sun resort could help revive ZambiaÆs slugging tourism market.

Zambian Tourism will reach unprecedented growth from links to Sun International's exclusive marketing network which links the Palace of the Lost City at Sun City to the Saint Geran in Mauritius, the Atlantis Resort in the Bahamas, Table Bay in Cape Town and the Zimbali Lodge in Kwazulu-Natal.

"Sun Hotels will spark the revival of Livingstone and Zambia," says Zambia National Tourist Board (ZNTB) chief executive Agness Seenka.

Sixty-eight-year-old Moffat Ndibali, who was retrenched when a local textile factory closed, and who has been living in Livingstone for 45 years, says: "It is like sleeping and waking up to a changed world. This town was dead. In 1958, there were many flights at the airport. By 1990 there was not a single flight in a week. There were no tourists in town. Now I can see we are back in 1958. If only Sun could open today."

The completion of the hotel has rekindled new hope for people and industry.

"I have reason to start a laundry business. There has been no laundry business in Livingstone for over 20 years. But now, I can bid even for an old machine," says Fred Zimba.

But no matter how much the government is seeking South African investment, Livingstone lacks a deliberate policy to develop the city into a major tourist attraction.

The city possesses the biggest collection of famous explorer David Livingstone's personal belongings. It boasts the biggest museum in the vicinity of the Falls. It is also home to Cecil John Rhodes's first steam engines and major historical facts about the Falls and the Zambezi.

Source: Livingstone to get rebirth? (13/12/00)

Sun Hotels Strikes 'Gold' in Livingstone

 Lusaka — Livingstone, the tourist capital of Zambia is in fact a 'gold mine' just discovered with the construction of the 5 and 4-star Sun International hotel and pleasure resort.

'The airport is being rehabilitated, the roads are being redone, the water and sewerage systems being replaced, the Victoria Falls surroundings are also being beautified. All these and many other things are happening and come next April, Livingstone will be a gold mine.' These are the words of Mr. Nickolas Katanekwa, executive director of the National Heritage Conservation Commission (NHCC) in an interview recently in Livingstone where he tried to help the author have a glimpse of latest developments in the tourist capital.

Source: Sun Hotels Strikes 'Gold' in Livingstone (31/10/2000)

Danger of the white water

Hurtling through the crashing waves of a Zambezi rapid, giant rocks encroaching left and right, as you paddle in a hopeless attempt to find "solid" water rather than foamy spray, it's worth remembering two things:

a) this is a holiday
b) you paid upwards of $80 for the experience - this is supposed to be fun!

To conjure the experience of whitewater rafting in your head, imagine sitting at the front of a rollercoaster car and seeing the track in front vanish.

There is no telling what path your inflatable raft will take through the swirling eddies and breaking waves of a grade five rapid. (Grade six is considered "unrunnable" for all crafts except one-man kayak canoes.)

Of course you get a pep talk before each - a brief set of guidelines for those on the left and right of the craft, on whether to paddle forward or backward, fast or double-quick speed.

But except for the guide at the back, you are all amateurs and you quickly realise eight plastic paddles can only command a limited influence against the might of this untamed waterway.

And so, inevitably, you end up plunged into the water where surging currents and whirlpools suck you down before, eventually, spitting you out.

Money in them there rapids

In Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, whitewater rafting is the second biggest tourist draw after the cascading 128m falls themselves.

The stretch of Zambezi river that runs immediately from the bottom of the falls is said to have the highest concentration of grade five rapids anywhere in the world.
Everywhere in the town, visitors are confronted with the hard-sell tactics of representatives working for the rafting companies. It takes real bravery to say no and, while on a holiday last year in Southern Africa, I reluctantly caved in.

And so, early one sunny November morning, I found myself perched on the side of an eight-man raft, paddle in hand, crash-helmet clamped to my head and with a lifejacket as tight as corset. No one is strapped in - that would be even more dangerous than hanging loose.
I had already signed the all-important indemnity certificate that absolved the organiser of liability in the event of an accident.

In my gung-ho haste I had not even checked my travel insurance to see if I was covered - most standard schemes do not include this sort of extreme sporting activity.

My fellow crew, a mix of Swedish, Irish and Dutch 20 and 30-somethings, were, like me, whitewater virgins. Our induction was swift but serious. Of course, what they do not tell you is that an average of two people die every year on this stretch of river, doing the exact same thing.

The river takes control

The first two or three rapids were reasonably fun, providing just the right mix of adrenaline surge and safety reassurance, which basically meant we all managed to stay in the boat.

But things got really hairy with the first grade five. Our plotted course went out the window as the forceful flow of the rapid took over.

Very suddenly the water came crashing in from all sides, buffeting the side of the raft and pitching it in a dozen different directions within a few seconds.

The guide urged us to keep paddling - "Left side hard forward, right side hard back" - but the raft might as well have been floating on several multi-directional jet-streams.

Taking the plunge

I looked behind me and saw the edge of the raft minus two team members. Then came a huge surge of water which flipped the craft over and I had a micro-second to fill my lungs with air before taking the plunge.

"If you fall in, don't panic" we had been warned, and I didn't ... not for the first 10 or 15 seconds at least. The currents had dragged me down and I waited in a semi-calm state to surface.

But as the urge to breathe intensified and still I failed to find oxygen I began to worry. Finally I surfaced, gulped a breath of air and was immediately sucked down again by the rapid which continued to carrying me through.

When I surfaced once more, I gasped for air but the panic had forced my windpipe to contract, making it difficult to fill my lungs. Thankfully I was clear of the rapid but water continued to flush around my head.

A white-knuckle ride too far

Utterly drained I swam to one of the support-team's kayaks and was finally hauled into another raft.
When our team was eventually reunited we were given an option of taking the next grade five rapid in one of two ways - easy or hard.

I plumped for the former but some of my team-mates had got a perverse kick out of their own near-death experiences and the latter won through.

Not surprisingly, it was pretty much a repeat performance. By lunchtime I was glad I had chosen the half-day option instead of the full-day. Whitewater rafting was a white-knuckle ride too far - give me a rollercoaster any day.

Source: BBC World News Danger of the white water (28/07/99)

Michael Jackson visits Victoria Falls

Pop-singer Michael Jackson visited Zimbabwe this week to meet with President Robert Mugabe and discuss investment possibilities, according to the Associated Press. Jackson arrived Monday as a guest of Zimbabwe Defense Industries with a group from the U.S.-based United Pacific Holdings Group, in which he reportedly has a financial interest. According to Mugabe, he and Jackson discussed investment ideas for a hotel development in Victoria Falls, one of the country's most popular tourist destinations. There was no advance publicity for Jackson's visit, and the singer refused to speak to reporters. Hundreds of screaming fans mobbed the singer's hotel when word of his arrival spread, and a few were rewarded with autographs.

Source: Michael Jackson visits Victoria Falls (17/11/98)

Onslaught Of Tourists Threatens Victoria Falls

 By Deseret News

Apr 26, 1996, 7:00am BST

Reuter News Service

The wall of water over a mile wide tumbling into the Zambezi River gorges is as awesome today as when David Livingstone became the first European to see it in 1855.

But Victoria Falls, the world's biggest waterfall straddling the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia, is facing a growing onslaught from tourists whose numbers could triple in 10 years. Conservationists fear the hundreds of thousands of visitors who flock to the falls each year could end up destroying the very wilderness they come to see.

The Zambezi upriver from the falls is already invaded by an armada of "sundowner" cruise boats each evening while small planes and helicopters vie for aerial views overhead.

Downriver, more and more intrepid travelers white-water raft through the gorges - and in between, the downright reckless queue up for the world's highest bungee jump from the Victoria Falls bridge.

For the local economy, this is boom time.

Incoming flights and hotels are full, more so than ever before this year as excellent summer rains restore the falls to their former glory after years of drought.

For the moment, the falls - known locally as Mosi-Oa-Tunya or "the smoke that thunders" - remain relatively unscathed by the invasion.

The rain forest created by the plume of spray rising 1,000 feet into the air is still pristine, apart from the narrow concrete path along the edge of the waterfall. The surrounding game parks offer vistas of unspoiled African bush.

But that could change with hotel groups planning to cash in on the resort's growing popularity by building another four hotels, including a large Sheraton that would protrude above the tree line.

At present the town of Victoria Falls has eight hotels plus three under construction. There are five on the Zambian side.

In an effort to balance the needs of tourism and conservation, the governments of Zimbabwe and Zambia commissioned a study from the International Union for the Conservation of Nature into future development of the area.

But the report, presented at the end of March, has only fueled controversy after Zimbabwe rejected a key recommendation for a moratorium on new projects pending a detailed master plan for the area.

The Zambezi Society conservation group said it was disappointed by the rejection of the moratorium call.

"We believe it is essential that the Victoria Falls area retains the wilderness quality that people have come to Africa to experience," it said.

The IUCN report concluded that further development in the area would inevitably have a significant environmental impact.

"If tourism increases two or three times in the next 10 years, which is the scenario we are talking about, it is going to be necessary to put limits on use," said IUCN program officer Jan Sugl.

Source: Onslaught Of Tourists Threatens Victoria Falls (26/04/96)